Aberdeen
 Aberdeen
lies tucked away on the southern reaches
of Hong Kong Island. Two centuries ago it
was a refuge for pirates. Later it became
a centre for incense production. Later still
its name - Heung Gong, or Fragrant Harbour
was anglicised and applied to the whole
city. More recently it was a simple fishing
village. Today Aberdeen is a modern town,
with streets full of high-rise buildings,
and its vibrant waterfront home to the yachts
of Hong Kong's rich and famous.
Traditional and often impoverished
ways of life still prevail, however, none
more striking than the harbour's hundreds
of junks and sampans, old-fashioned boats
which provide floating homes for thousands
of people. Taking a ride on one of the boats
is a popular activity - you will inevitably
be approached by people trying to sell you
a trip - but try to stick with licensed
operators. Alternatively take a shuttle
boat to one of the harbour's famous 'floating
restaurants', vast and gaudily decorated
affairs aimed unashamedly at tourists, but
fun nevertheless.
Other things to see include
the traditional boatyards of Ap Lei Chau
across the harbour (access by boat or bridge)
and the Tin Hau Temple (1851), the
latter dedicated to the Queen of Heaven
(or Goddess of the Sea), protector of seafarers.
A statue of the goddess stands inside the
temple flanked by two generals: one who
can hear clearly and another who can see
clearly. Hung Hsing, another small temple
at the southern end of the main street,
is also worth visiting.
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